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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.